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Here are a few things to pay attention to with your new rifle. |
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| 1. |
The barrel
needs to be scrubbed out thoroughly before firing the first round.
This means a brush and something like Kroil or another good solvent.
I would follow that with a mild abrasive like JB Bore Paste or Rem
Clean. |
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| 2. |
Not everyone
believes in breaking-in a barrel. I do, but you don't have to be
anal about it. I think the Krieger method should be followed. For
the first three to five rounds, clean the barrel after each shot.
Look for color on the patches. Then fire five rounds - two-three
times, cleaning the barrel after each group. That should do it, but
if you are still getting color on the patches, keep going. |
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| 3. |
If you are
going to use Moly coated bullets, switch to them after the break-in.
Don't look for anything spectacular for the first few Moly rounds
until the Moly settles in. |
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| 4. |
If you are
going to switch barrels on the action, be sure to work in a thin
coat of grease on the threads. Moly-Slick or equivalent is good for
that. |
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| 5. |
The barrel
should be torqued to 40-50 foot-pounds. If you don't have a torque
wrench, get one. The ones Craftsman sells with the indicator bar are
not all that expensive. It's what I use.
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| 6. |
A sturdy vise
mounted on a heavy bench is highly recommended for switching
barrels. Be sure to use brass or aluminum clamping plates against
the barrel so that you will not mar the finish.
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| 7. |
If you are
going to use a barrel-band style front sight (RPA ladder or such), a
drop of Lok-Tite for the indexing ring is a good idea.
Just don't
get any on the setscrew or you will never get it loose again.
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| 8. |
Keep a thin
film of synthetic grease on the bolt, especially the lugs. Moly-Slick
is good if you don't mind the mess. |
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| 9. |
Mounting the
trigger is a snap; just two screws and you are done. Don't strip the
slots, but make sure they are tight and check them periodically.
They can
come loose from the vibration if not properly tightened. |
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| 10. |
Adjusting the
trigger is too lengthy to go into here. Read the included
instructions or call me if you can't figure something out. The
trigger is a true two-stage, but that can be adjusted out if you
prefer. |
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11. |
DO NOT,
repeat, DO NOT use the action as a sizing die! If the
new brass you are going to use offers any restriction in closing the
bolt, get that case out of there and re-size it properly. The same
goes for fired brass if you are neck sizing only. I have gotten into
the habit of checking all my brass in the chamber before re-loading.
I'm not telling you to go that far but you should at least take some
extra rounds to a match in case one or two is a tad long. This is a
custom, precision built action and the tolerances are very tight. If
something doesn't feel right, there's a reason for it. BE SAFE! |
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12. |
Now in case
you are not listening…., if you hammer on the bolt handle and snap
it off in the process, I'll fix it. However, it will cost you. If it
happens on a half-closed bolt with a live round in the chamber, this
is what I would do:
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a. |
The
live round has to be fired off before anything else can be
done to the rifle. |
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b. |
Clear
the firing line. |
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c. |
Carefully lay the rifle down on the bolt side, pointed down
range.
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d. |
Using
a LONG stick, scope-stand rod, or cleaning rod, and
standing well to the side of the rifles with everyone else
well away from the rifle, especially behind it, hit the
trigger. |
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e. |
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU ATTEMPT TO UNSCREW THE
BARREL WITH A LIVE ROUND IN THE CHAMBER! |
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f. |
Remember that any damage to the rifle can be repaired. Your
safety is far more important! |
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